Tag Archives: Tulle
How Wedding Dress Skirts Get Their Volume: Tulle, Crinoline, Horsehair and Petticoats
A wedding dress skirt can float softly around the body, hold a perfectly architectural A-line or occupy enough space to require its own transportation arrangements.
None of this happens by accident.
The shape of a wedding dress skirt is created not only by the fabric you see, but by an entire supporting cast underneath it: layers of tulle, stiff net, crinoline, petticoats, horsehair braid and carefully engineered linings.
Wedding dress volume can come from the fabric itself, layers beneath the skirt, structural supports at the hem, or a separate petticoat — and most dramatic gowns use a combination of several techniques.
Tulle: Volume Without Too Much Weight
Tulle is one of bridal fashion’s favourite ways to create volume because a great deal of it can be layered without making a skirt impossibly heavy.
Soft tulle creates movement and an airy, romantic appearance. Stiffer varieties can provide considerably more support and may be hidden underneath softer outer layers.
A designer can therefore build a skirt from many layers, each doing a slightly different job.
- Soft tulle creates visible softness and movement.
- Stiffer tulle or net supports the silhouette underneath.
- Gathered tulle creates fullness around the waist or hip.
- Layered tulle gradually builds volume without one obvious structural element.
The enormous romantic skirt may look as though it is floating on enthusiasm alone. There is usually quite a lot of engineering under there.
Crinoline: The Architecture Under the Dress
Historically, crinolines were structured underskirts designed to hold skirts away from the body. Modern bridal construction uses the term somewhat more broadly, but the principle remains the same: support the outer skirt so it maintains its intended shape.
Crinoline may appear as stiff netting sewn directly into the gown, layers incorporated into the underskirt, or a separate structured petticoat.
It is particularly useful in ball gowns and fuller A-line silhouettes where the designer wants the skirt to project outward rather than simply fall downward.
If you love a sample gown but wish the skirt were slightly fuller — or slightly less dramatic — ask whether the volume can be adjusted. Depending on the construction, changing or removing some internal netting or using a different petticoat may alter the silhouette considerably.
Petticoats: The Removable Volume Control
A petticoat is a separate underskirt worn beneath the wedding dress. It can add volume without requiring permanent changes to the gown itself.
Some are made primarily from layers of stiff tulle or net. Others contain hoops that create a more defined structure.
This makes petticoats particularly useful when a bride wants more separation between her legs and a large skirt, or when a gown needs additional support to achieve the designer’s intended silhouette.
But bigger is not automatically better.
A petticoat that is too large can distort the proportions of the dress, shorten the apparent length of the skirt or push the fabric into a shape it was never designed to make.
Sometimes it is simply more petticoat. The best underskirt supports the design rather than announcing its own independent ambitions.
Hoops: Structure Without Endless Layers
Hooped petticoats use flexible rings to hold the skirt away from the body. Because the structure comes from the hoops rather than dozens of fabric layers, they can create substantial volume without equivalent weight.
They can also make a very full gown easier to walk in by keeping fabric away from the legs.
The number, size and position of the hoops affect the silhouette. A wide lower hoop can create a sweeping bell shape, while several graduated hoops can support a more evenly structured ball gown.
The potential disadvantage is visibility. With lightweight or insufficiently layered outer fabrics, the outline of a hoop can sometimes show through.
Horsehair Braid: The Secret at the Hem
Despite the name, modern horsehair braid does not generally involve horses. It is a flexible woven synthetic trim sewn into hems, seams or skirt layers to give fabric additional body.
And it does something rather different from a petticoat.
Instead of creating enormous volume underneath the entire skirt, horsehair helps the edge of the fabric hold a shape.
It is frequently used in organza, tulle and other lightweight fabrics to create sweeping hems, sculptural waves and defined flounces.
If a wedding dress hem seems to make an improbably perfect wave, horsehair braid may be quietly taking the credit.
Horsehair Width Changes the Effect
Horsehair braid comes in different widths. Narrow braid can provide subtle definition, while wider horsehair can produce much more dramatic curves and sculptural movement.
Designers may also use it inside multiple skirt layers, allowing each layer to hold its own shape.
This is why some lightweight skirts appear extraordinarily voluminous even though they do not contain a traditional enormous petticoat.
Fabric Can Create Volume Too
Not every full wedding dress needs enormous quantities of hidden structure.
Some fabrics naturally hold shape better than others.
Mikado, duchess satin and heavier faille can create strong silhouettes because the fabric itself has body. Organza is lighter but crisp enough to hold considerable volume. Chiffon and soft crepe, by contrast, generally fall closer to the body unless supported by additional construction.
This means two skirts cut from the same pattern can behave completely differently when made in different fabrics.
Gathering, Pleating and Circular Cuts
Volume can also be created through pattern cutting.
A skirt with significant gathering at the waist contains considerably more fabric than the waist measurement itself. Pleats can control that excess fabric before allowing it to expand lower down.
Circle and multi-panel skirts create fullness through the shape and quantity of fabric rather than relying entirely on gathered bulk at the waist.
This distinction matters because where the volume begins changes the proportions of the gown.
A skirt that becomes full directly from the waist creates a very different silhouette from one that remains controlled through the upper hip before expanding. Do not judge volume only by the size of the hem.
Why Some Ball Gowns Feel Surprisingly Light
A visually enormous skirt does not necessarily mean an extremely heavy dress.
Layers of tulle and lightweight net can create impressive dimensions with relatively little weight, while a comparatively sleek gown made from heavily beaded fabric may feel much heavier on the body.
Weight also depends on where the gown is supported. A well-constructed bodice can distribute the weight of a large skirt through the waist and torso rather than leaving everything hanging from the shoulders.
Can You Remove Volume From a Wedding Dress?
Often, yes — but not always simply.
If much of the fullness comes from removable or accessible layers of netting, an alterations specialist may be able to reduce it. A separate petticoat can obviously be changed or removed.
But when volume is fundamental to the pattern of the skirt — for example, enormous gathered panels or architectural pleating — removing an underskirt will not transform it into a completely different silhouette.
The same applies in reverse. Adding a gigantic petticoat underneath a relatively narrow skirt does not magically create a ball gown. It may simply create a fight between the dress and the petticoat.
Check the Skirt Before Ordering
When trying on a voluminous wedding dress, find out what you are actually wearing.
- Is the sample being shown with a separate petticoat?
- Is that petticoat included with the gown?
- Can the amount of internal tulle or netting be adjusted?
- Does the skirt contain hoops?
- Will the ordered gown have exactly the same internal construction as the sample?
- Will alterations affect the horsehair or hem structure?
And walk in it.
Sit in it. Turn around. Try stairs if the boutique allows it. A skirt is not merely an object to admire while standing perfectly still on a pedestal.
Ask the boutique how the skirt should be transported, steamed and bustled. The architecture that makes a dramatic gown spectacular can also require a little logistical planning.
The Best Volume Is the Volume That Belongs to the Dress
There is no correct amount of wedding dress volume.
A whisper of tulle can be beautiful. So can a monumental ball gown that enters the room several seconds before the bride.
What matters is that the structure supports the design, moves properly and creates the silhouette you actually want.
A wedding dress skirt may look effortless. Good construction is usually the reason it can afford to.
“`
25 Fabrics You Need to Know Before Purchasing Your Wedding Gown
The shape of your gown, its texture and draping along with your wedding season are key factors that will determine the best fabric to be used when creating or purchasing “THE ONE”. For example: a column gown needs a fine texture that give your a sense of flow while a ballroom gown needs stiffer fabrics that help maintain the desired silhouette.
Almost every wedding gown has a mix of fabrics ensuring that you have the best quality and shape you can obtain. The bridal dress is a complex composition of rigid and lightweight fabrics, rougher and more delicate– all in a perfect play of elegance and refinement.
As you can see from the above image a wedding gown has a more rigid structure underneath the layers of lace and embroidery and skirts that can be created by layering different types of tulle, organza etc. Every gown is special and the one you desire will be a mix of all the components you desire- one thing is for sure, make sure that the fabrics you opt for give you the structure necessary for a long day.
Today we’ll talk exclusively about fabrics that can create structure and details to your wedding dress. We’ll analyse all types of laces in a future post.
Satin
One of the most common, durable and versatile fabrics, satin is heavy and shiny, made out of several types of fibres such as silk, nylon and rayon. Satin is a type of weave that gives its characteristic shine from the way the fibres are woven together.
It’s a supportive fabric that can create a perfect base for a wedding gown but can be worn on its own as well. Perfect fabric for autumn and winter weddings as well as jackets, sleeves and boleros.
Chiffon
Chiffon ( most fabrics retain their original french name) is a soft and sheer material without any shine, often used in layers to create skirts and in single shear sheats as overskirt, sleeves or sheer silhouettes.
It’s a very popular fabric for skirts because it gives that feel of movement and a very special elegance when worn. Chiffon is the reference fabric for empire gowns and boho silhouettes.
Tulle
Tulle is a gauzy, netted material most commonly used in skirts and details ( such as sleeves). It’s a light material made of silk, nylon or rayon. Most commonly used in many layers to create the ballroom gown. There are a multitude of tulle types – most commonly used for the base of a skirt are the rigid, coarser textures , while for the overlay layers softer tulle is used. For more sparkle you can choose a type of tulle that is weaved with lurex.
Organza / Organdy
Even do it is sheer and lightweight fabric, organza maintains the structure of a wedding gown and confers a stiffer texture. A very delicate fabric it is used for volumizing skirts but it can be used as well for sleeves and corsetry.
For its lightweight structure organza is a perfect fabric for summer weddings. Not to be confused with organdy, which is made out of cotton, organza is made using silk.
Silk
A fabric with a specific shine created by using the oldest type of natural fibres – the one made by the silkworm, making it the most expensive on the market. Even do it has a delicate look silk is extremely durable and versatile.
Silk can be used in all seasons and it suits well more traditional silhouettes, but it has been used in contemporary styles as well. This fabric has an incredible timelessness.
Gazar
Made of wool or silk this fabric is created by double weaving and twisting the fibres. Has a very fine texture and keeps its shape for a long time, making it extremely durable. Perfect for princess cuts and creative styles.
Mikado
One of the most luxurious types of silk, Mikado is used for structural wedding gowns. It’s heavier that regular silk and hence it gives more volume and creates a more haute couture feel.
Dupioni
The most popular mix of silk, most times synonymous to Shantung because the two fabrics share similar textures. But Dupioni is a bit heavier and rougher because the fibres are still exposed and become a bit coarser.
Taffeta
This fabric is made from silk or synthetic fibres, the better the quality the more rigid the taffeta. It has a delicate shine to it, but it’s more toned that satin, and it fits most silhouettes. It is an ideal fabric for A-line gowns and bridal gowns with draping details.
Charmeuse
A light, semi-shine and soft fabric made from silk or synthetic fibers. Similar to silk when touched but it lacks the shine. Given its shape it drapes phenomenal and it’s ideal for lightweight wedding gowns, such as empire or column.
When it comes to haute couture gowns they are lined with charmeuse. Keep in mind that this fabric is quite unforgiving, you can’t wear much underneath.
Georgette
This fabric is traditionally made from silk and has a wrinkled texture that can be a bit rougher. But this gives georgette an amazing capacity to retain its original shape and offer a true flow.
The weaved fibres are extremely tight because they are very thin, giving georgette a true resistance and versatility. This fabric can be used many times, it can also be draped – it is similar to chiffon but it is heavier and more opaque.
Batiste
A light, soft, sheer fabric with shine and durability. It is woven from cotton or linen and gives a true option to any eco-conscious bride. Batiste is a common fabric with vintage wedding gowns.
Brocarde
This fabric is woven using a french technique invented by Marie Jacquard, sometimes even borrowing its name. Brocarde is a highly ornate fabric with a heavy and rigid structure. This is a traditional fabric perfect for autumn and winter brides but also traditional brides that want that cathedral look.
Crepe
Crepe is a light, soft and thin fabric with a shine surface obtained through fiber spinning and chemical treatment. Perfect for draping and column gown, it can cling to the body, showing everything.
Damasc
A perfect alternative to brocarde if you are getting married in the summertime. It is a woven fabric but a little bit lighter that brocarde. Perfect for vintage wedding gowns and ball gowns.
Satin duchesse
A light hybrid between silk or rayon/polyester woven with a satin finish. It’s stiffer and lighter than satin but less prone to wrinkle, a perfect choice for brides that love to dance all night.
Faille
One of the most structured types of silk it’s easier to tailor that normal silk or satin while keeping its shape. Can be made from silk, cotton or synthetic fibres.
Illusion
Illusion fabric is finely woven in net material. It’s often used as a decorative support for sleeves, necklines or backless gowns. This is the fabric you never see.
Moire
This is a type of taffeta with a heavier and crispier feel. A perfect fabric for wedding gowns with volume and structure.
Peau de soie
A fabric similar to satin with a mat and slightly granular look. Has great draping abilities but it can be used as well in rigid mermaid silhouettes. Perfect for early spring brides.
Shantung
Shantung has a rubbed texture that resembles raw silk. It’s softer that dupioni being one of the most popular fabrics used for bridal gowns.
Dotted Swiss
Originally from Switzerland this fabric is handspun on looms. A lightweight, breathable fabric with a sprinkled elegant dotted motif perfect for tulle skirts and even veils. Ideal for vintage brides.
Point D’esprit
Recognisable by name, this french fabric is extremely elegant and feminine. Has a structure similar to tulle perfect for skirts and sleeves.
Rayon
Known as synthetic silk or viscose, rayon is a semi-synthetic fiber made from cellulose. A cheaper alternative to silk, it is smooth, light breathable. Keep in mind that it can wrinkle easily.
Voile
Semi-transparent and sheer, made from cotton, wool, worsted silk or synthetic fibers like polyester. It’s a perfect material for summer weddings and can create lovely princes looks or sexy mermaid or A-line gowns.
Tips&Tricks: Wedding Gown Materials 4 – Tulle
This is an exquisite and delicate material. It is soft, beautiful and great for veils and appliques. Gives a romantic and ethereal aura. You can choose a full skirt out of tulle to give that special princess feel to your gown. FashionBride’s Picks: 1.Marchesa 2.Alvina Valenta 3.Casablanca 4. Lazaro 5. Lazaro 6.Lhuilier 7.Oscar de la Renta 8. Oscar de la Renta 9.Lhuillier 10.Oscar de la Renta 11.Vera Wang 12. Alvina Valenta
